Eat, Stay, Explore: Venice Beyond The Grand Canal

The Venice Architecture Biennale returns to its 19th edition, curated by visionary architect-engineer Carlo Ratti. This year’s theme, ‘Intelligens. Natural. Artificial. Collective.’ explores how architecture is adapting to climate change, particularly to the rising sea levels, a challenge Venice knows all too well. Beyond gondolas, grand canals and its tourist-packed neighbourhoods dressed as pavilions, the Biennale offers a deeper lens into a city in flux. While initiatives like the €5 daytripper fee and real-time visitor tracking aim to address overtourism, Venetians are quietly reclaiming the soul of their city, reviving the spirit of ‘La Serenissima,’ or the Most Serene Republic, through a graceful interplay of resilience, innovation, and design.

For those heading to the Venice Architecture Biennale or simply seeking a more discerning slice of the floating city, this curated guide reimagines a day in Venice beyond the clichés. Begin your journey on Giudecca Island, where the newly reimagined Hotel Cipriani by Belmond stands as a serene icon. Its timeless elegance and unrivalled location offer a rare sense of space in a city jostling for space. Then, make your way to the storied ‘Venetian Café’ reimagined as an immersive art space, a first in Biennale history, where a special project transcends official exhibition boundaries. For a bit of adventure, take a boat to the quiet island of Mazzorbo, where a Michelin-starred destination restaurant and a vineyard stay await. This itinerary is a celebration of enduring cultural eclecticism—where epochs converse, craftsmanship reigns, and Venice reveals itself not just as a postcard city but what ‘Native Venice’ was in its heyday.

1. Eat At Gran Quadri: Where Culinary Art Meets Venetian Elegance

Helmed by chef Massimiliano Alajmo and his brother Raffaele, the Quadri experience unfolds across three elegant venues— Gran Caffè Quadri, Bistrot Quadrino, and the Michelin-starred ‘Ristorante Quadri.’ The Gran Caffè offers sweeping views of Piazza San Marco with a menu that includes continental breakfasts,cicchetti, pizzas, and aperitivi – all set to live music. Indoors, the art-filled ‘Bistrot Quadrino’ offers a relaxed, frescoed retreat. 

Upstairs, Ristorante Quadri—part of Les Grandes Tables du Monde and Relais & Châteaux—serves refined tasting menus rooted in Italian and Venetian traditions. Highlights include the 16-course experience for two, featuring creations like ‘cappuccino di laguna’ and ‘moeche’, the prized soft-shell crabs of the lagoon. This Biennale, the cafe’s exterior facade transforms into a living stage — a striking design intervention by Teresa Sapey + Partners and Aaron Betsky.

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Once frequented by luminaries like Byron and Proust, this culinary temple was reborn in 2018 through a meticulous restoration by the Alajmo brothers, ushering in a new era of elegance and culinary artistry. The restoration, helmed by visionary designer Philippe Starck and the Venetian architect Marino Folin, is a masterclass in adaptive reuse. 

Every detail reveals layers of the past, reimagined with modern opulence—brass signage by Fonderia Valese, earthy wall coverings that echo 16th-century silk brocade subtly woven with rockets, satellites, and portraits of the Alajmo brothers, crafted by Tessitura Bevilacqua. Mirrors by the legendary Barbini family, who are Murano glassmakers since 1570, reflect history with grace, while a striking chandelier by Aristide Najean on the upper floor offers a contemporary take on 17th-century Venetian grandeur.

DP loves the painted carpets designed by Ara Starck, depicting ethereal figures drifting through a phantasmagorical world—an artistic reflection of the subconscious.

2. Stay At Cipriani: Effortless Luxury In A Venetian Icon

Tucked away on the serene tip of Giudecca Island, with sweeping views of the Venetian Lagoon and St. Mark’s Square, Hotel Cipriani is an icon of timeless glamour. Encircled by lush gardens, a saltwater pool, private tennis courts, and a serene wellness sanctuary, this legendary retreat is the ultimate escape for the discerning traveller. Tasked with reimagining its storied elegance, New York-based architect Peter Marino brings a fresh modernist lens, honouring Cipriani’s Dolce Vita spirit while infusing it with contemporary sophistication. 

Scheduled to open this May, Marino reimagines the arrival experience with a soaring, light-filled double-height lobby that sets the tone for the refreshing, elegant makeover of Hotel Cipriani. The first phase of the renovation unveils 13 redefined rooms, including two opulent master suites—Serenissima and Laguna—each conceived as a private Venetian apartment with a dining room, library, and salon offering sweeping views of the lagoon. Eleven additional Suites and Junior Suites exude quiet elegance, each featuring private balconies that open onto the romantic Casanova Gardens.

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To set sail into the Venetian Lagoon aboard the Edipo Re, a mahogany-clad beauty that channels timeless elegance and cinematic charm, is an unforgettable experience. This immersive voyage glides into the lagoon’s quieter corners, like Torcello, with its 7th-century cathedral and glistening Byzantine mosaics, or explore the serene southern isles, offering a new perspective of Venice far from the crowds. 

After your explorations, return to the hotel for its rich array of experiences that strike a balance between indulgence and leisurely escape, evoking the essence of ‘villeggiatura,’ the intrinsic Italian art of savouring slow, sensuous summers. Sip an original Bellini—born in Venice — at the iconic Cip’s Club, then indulge in a culinary journey at the Michelin-starred Oro, enjoy relaxed poolside bites at Il Porticciolo, or end the evening with a nightcap at the storied Bar Gabbiano. Each venue offers a distinct experience, perfectly suited to every mood and moment.

DP loves the iconic red-clay courts framed by verdant foliage, then unwinding with a dip in Venice’s only saltwater pool.

3. Explore Venissa: A Quiet Icon Of Wine, Walls, And Legacy

On the tranquil island of Mazzorbo, the northern part of the lagoon with Burano and Torcello, which embodies the essence of ‘Native Venice,’ lies Venissa, the last remaining walled vineyard in the lagoon. Steeped in heritage that dates back to the Middle Ages, the vineyard was lovingly restored by the Bisol family, renowned in the world of winemaking. Within its historic walls thrives the rare ‘Dorona’ grape, a native variety that was nearly lost to the devastating flood of 1966, now a symbol of Venice’s quiet resilience and deep-rooted terroir.

Set within the evocative walls of the vineyard, ‘Ristorante Venissa’ is a Michelin-starred restaurant which offers a soulful interpretation of ‘Native Venice’ through the culinary lens of chefs Francesco Brutto and Chiara Pavan. The cuisine, known as ‘cucina ambientale’  is their hyper-local, terroir-driven cuisine that captures the spirit of the lagoon. Facing the serene garden, at the bar or ‘Osteria Contemporanea’, the menu spotlights its surroundings, marrying the spirit of the lagoon with a modern sensibility. Expect seasonal cicchetti, refined ‘secondi’ of fresh seafood, daily-crafted pastas and risottos, and timeless Italian desserts that evoke pure comfort alongside natural wines and craft cocktails.

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Don’t miss the wine experiences, where guests are invited to explore the estate and savour the signature Dorona wines—a rare varietal revived on this very land. Retreat into one of the five rooms of the Wine Resort, where understated luxury meets the pastoral beauty of the lagoon.

 DP loves the new ‘Chef’s Table’ experience at Venissa, where Chef’s lagoon-inspired, environmentally conscious cuisine reveals a rare, intimate side of Venice.